Wednesday, 20 July 2016

5 Things to do in Penang

Penang is an island state in north-west Malaysia and is as cultural as it is beautiful.
The eye-catching capital George Town is well worth a visit during your travels in South East Asia for the views, arts, and world famous food! Enjoy the diverse and vibrant ethnicities, religion, culture, landscape and flavours that make Penang so memorable.
Here are my top 5 do-not-miss moments for making the most of travel in Penang:


George Town from my hotel window


 1. Penang Hill

As the highest point in Penang, this is the best place to take in the stunning views of the capital city George Town. The only way up to the top is a short train ride- foreigners pay more but the student rate is only RM15. Once you're at the top there are loads of extra-cost activities like a rainforest walk or owl museum. I found just exploring and looking at the city views was more than enough entertainment.

George Town hides behind the lush green rainforest on Penang Hill
A boardwalk of love heart locks is one of the many extra attractions to see on the hill


2. Find the Street Art

My favourite thing to do in Penang was to wander the quirky colonial streets of George Town hunting for the more creative street art. There are loads of different paintings and cartoons to find scattered around the city. Some are even 3D and allow you to sit in and be a part of the art. Plenty of photo opportunities! Ask for a map to make sure you can find the best ones.






 If you really want to go all out, consider hiring one of the eccentric 4-person bikes. It makes light work to find the artworks and the journey is far more entertaining than walking-- but it's not exactly subtle!


These tour bikes are available for hire in the main street art area



3. Eat, eat and eat

This is what Penang is known for. A trip there is worthwhile just for the food alone.
I was lucky enough to have a Malaysian friend travel with me and order all my food from the best hidden places.
If you don't happen to have a local guide- get some inspiration and ideas of where to find the tastiest hawker food from one of these guides:

Do not settle for standard restaurant food- there are amazing flavours to be found!

My favourite noodle dish perfected in Penang



4. Kek Lok Si Temple

This stunning temple is one of the largest Buddhist temples in Malaysia. It's quiet, colourful and extensive. Spend about at least an hour walking around and taking in all Kek Lok Si has to offer.






5. Keep on exploring!

There's plenty more to find in Penang or onwards if you have the time. There are heaps of nearby islands to discover. I caught a 3 hour ferry to Langkawi Island and spend a few days soaking up the sun. Head to one of the tour companies at the dock to book your next destination!


Enjoying the pristine beaches in Langkawi












I travelled to Penang in July staying 2 night sin George Town and 3 nights on Langkawi Island. This is from my 4th trip to South East Asia. Check out some of my other posts on the right and subscribe to my posts to keep reading my next adventures!

Most of my posts are from a 5-month trip to Southern Africa, check out my blog HERE. 
 

Flavours of Vietnam: Finding the Best Eats and Street Treats

From Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi, restaurants and cafes to the street, Vietnam has exotic, tasty food for a quarter of the price you’d pay in Australia.
Unfortunately many tourists are reluctant to try the most authentic dishes in fear of spending their holiday hunched over a bucket.
But not being afraid to immerse yourself in the culture and try traditional flavours will be the difference between unforgettable food, and missed opportunities.
Whether you’re a first time tourist or an experienced traveller, knowing where and what to eat in Vietnam is essential in creating the perfect exotic escape.
Avoid the common tourist trap of sticking to western food but start at local restaurants before delving into street foods flavours.

Navigating food from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi

From the spicy curries in the south, to bustling street cafes in the north, you won’t have to look far to find great food, but each city in Vietnam has different strengths.
South Vietnam’s warmer climate means more tropical fruits. Spices are rich in central Vietnam and seafood is more popular in the north.
For traveller Anna Ditchburn, who explored from South to North Vietnam, the former harbour town and popular tourist destination Hoi An was the place to eat, featuring a mix of local and western infused menus.
“They have an abundance of lovely restaurants and use a lot of fresh seafood,” she said.
While Jenni Zierk, who travelled and studied in Vietnam, loved the variety in the north.
“Hoi An had excellent food but was pricey, Ho Chi Minh City had amazing street variety but not great restaurants. Hanoi was my favourite because it had a good mix of both,” Zierk said.
Take in the overwhelming scents of herb infused broths and slow-roasted meats in Vietnam’s capital Hanoi and try the infamous boiled meat, herb and noodle soup ‘pho’ said to have originated there.
“I love its saltiness and the contrast with the tangy coriander and spicy sauce”, Ditchburn said.
First-time visitor to Vietnam, Elizabeth Daff, used Hanoi as a base for her travels and describes North Vietnamese food as “full of flavour, meaty, warm, filling and delicious.”
For an authentic experience, jump in the hustle and bustle of Old Quarter in Hanoi, try a cooking class and get your hands dirty collecting fresh meat and veg straight from the markets before cooking.
“It was different to see the market as a participant instead of an observer,” Ditchburn said. “It was pretty confronting to see the fish we were going to cook killed in front of our faces, but I think it’s a really important thing to learn about.”

Tofu-stuffed eggplant, known as ‘cat timnhoidauhu’ served for lunch in Hanoi

Best Restaurant Eats

Wherever you are in Vietnam, there will be an overwhelming choice of local restaurants and cafes to taste and learn the local cuisine, but it can be difficult to decipher Vietnamese menus full of unfamiliar names.
Start with vegetable, herb, seafood or pork-stuffed rice-paper rolls, ‘goicuon’- the crisp crunch and fresh flavours make them a crowd favourite for tourists.
“Fresh spring rolls seem more quintessentially Vietnamese than the fried ones,” Ditchburn said. “They’re so fresh and full of flavour.”
Whether your preference is pork, fish, or veg, order a clay pot at least once. Food is stewed in the pot, keeping moisture and creating a tenderness that will melt in your mouth.
Daff’s favourite meal was ‘bun cha’, “made up of soft vermicelli noodles, fried pork belly, delicious sweet pork meatballs and a bowl of sweet and sour clear soup”.
Some tourists opt for western meals instead of these local dishes, but this food is rarely as good as it is in Australia, and likewise, Vietnamese food is never quite as flavoursome and authentic back home.
“You should eat Vietnamese food because you’re in Vietnam, as obvious as that sounds”, Zierk said. “If you’re craving western food, try something French-inspired like pastries or bread.”
As a former French colony from 1887-1954, the French influence in Vietnam sets its food apart from other South-East Asian cuisine.
Try ‘banh pate so’, a pork or beef filled flaky pastry, or ‘ca phetrung’, a Vietnamese sweet custard-like coffee made with egg, sugar and condensed milk which both Zierk and Daff enthusiastically indorse.
Fruit lovers will be in heaven in Vietnam, with constant access to rich tropical fruit like soft and juicy papaya. You won’t have to walk far to find a refreshing iced coconut juice or perfectly peeled mango.
Be captivated by the bright pink and green dragon fruit and discover its subtle melon and kiwi fruit flavour either fresh or blended with ice and sugar at one of the many smoothie bars.

Freshly cut dragon fruit and mango served for dessert at a restaurant in Hanoi

Street Treats

You’ll hear a lot of advice to stick to restaurants and avoid street food, especially from people who have never been to Vietnam, or who had a nasty food bug.
But steering clear of street food could be your biggest dining mistake.
Whether it’s a cart of ‘banh mi’ (baguette with meat, vegetables, coriander and sweet sauce), locals carrying baskets of ‘banhtieu’ (fried hollow donut) or a $1 noodle stand outside your hotel, some of Vietnam’s most enticing dishes are right in front of you.
“I like trying the weirdest food on the street,” Zierk said. “I tried ‘chendol’, which is a sweetened condensed milk drink with noodles, jelly and beans. You get all the different textures- like an extreme bubble tea.”
There’s plenty of options for the adventurous, like the delicacy ‘balut’, a fertilised duck egg matured and boiled that Ditchburn describes as like eating “meaty egg”.
But these unusual dishes are not for everyone- noodle based stir-fries are a safe option and the fried banana pancakes common in Hoi An area hit among tourists.
“Every street food is different. Nothing tastes the same. You could have terrible pho one day then the best pho you’ve had in your life the next,” Zierk said.
Street food is great if you’re on the go, saving money or want a break from café-style dining; and unless you’re unlucky, Ditchburn explains, food poisoning is not on the menu.
“I was quite hesitant at first, but the only problem I had with food poisoning was from a hotel,” she said. “If you can see the person preparing it hot in front of you, it’s probably good. It’s food that’s been sitting out and salads or juices with un-treated water that can cause problems,” Ditchburn added.
Observe how busy a street stall is. If the locals are avoiding one but lining up at another, play it safe and wait at the latter.
Try a walking street food tour in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City to learn the safest and tastiest stalls from a local.
“It built our confidence in eating street food on our own, because we had a better idea of what to get from where”, Daff said.

Balot served at a street market in Old Quarter, Hanoi

There’s nothing worse than seeing tourists in Vietnam spending their time in a pristine westernised restaurant wondering why the dirty footpath-café outside is attracting so much more attention.
If you’re unsure about a dish, ask, and be aware of what you eat so if something doesn’t sit right you won’t make a mistake twice.
Wherever your travels take you in Vietnam, take advantage of the huge variety of food and don’t be afraid to try something completely unknown- it might just be what you remember most from your trip.  









I wrote this in 2015 as a travel feature for a university assignment. I visted Vietnam is 2013 for 2 weeks, travelling from the south to north via night train. 

I am current living in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Keep posted for updates, travel tips and stories from SE Asia.

I started blogging assignments and stories in Melbourne but have spent the last year writting at ditchedinafrica about my travels and life in Southern Africa.  

Wednesday, 13 April 2016

12 Life Fails in Jakarta

Sometimes when you travel you’re waking up full of adrenaline in the coolest places, absolutely on the top the world. Then there’s times where you're plain lost, confused and accidently doing something culturally inappropriate or hilarious. 
90% of the time, my life in Jakarta was the later of these two.

Living alone in a foreign speaking country was a lot harder than I gave it credit for. My preparation, or lack thereof, was abundantly clear in the hectic, unforgiving city that is Jakarta. 

Sometimes when things aren’t exactly playing into your hands, there’s nothing left to do but laugh. I started to keep note of these not-so-travel-brochure moments.
Laugh with me, not at me.


1.  It's hard to pick just one example of my language fails. One time I confidently stated 'I come from a newspaper'. I don't even know what I was trying to say. Then again, I rarely did in Indonesia.

2.  I once directed a taxi that was five minutes from my apartment to somewhere an hour the compete other way. 
Ok, so that was actually a lie. 
This happened a lot. 
Like everyday a lot.

'Yes, I am giving you wrong directions to my own house'
'No, this is not my first time'
'Yes, I have lived here for a month now'
'Maaf (Sorry)'

3. When I found rats living inside my room I became one of those hysterical white tourists that cannot handle a rodent. I stayed awake for nights paranoid rats would crawl into my bed. I also didn't know how to explain rats in Indonesian. Shout out to my roomie at the time for getting me out of that mess.

4. In Jakarta you can order GOJEK- kinda like UBER but on motorbikes. And these motorbikes can deliver food. And massages. And all sorts of things. It's super cool.
Anyway, one time I tried to order some sushi. I got deep fried prawns.

5. Everytime I'd order a GOJEK to pick me up, my Indonesian skills were too poor to explain directions. I'd just repeat the location five times, mumble something, then pretend the connection was failing and just hope the driver could figure out the GPS location.

6. I desperately needed to do my washing. Like I'm wearing bathers as undies kind of desperate. I was living alone as the only English speaking person in an entire appartment complex and could not understand anyone's explaination of where I could do laundry. 
I ended up washing my clothes in a sink with soap until further notice.
We won't talk about how long that was.

7. Most houses in Jakarta have a gallon water station because tap water is unfit for drinking. This was all good and well until my gallon ran out and I had no idea where or how to get more. I just boiled water on my TINY hotplate for the rest of my time there.
And no, I also won't admit how long that was.

8. My apartment complex decided to get security key cards two weeks into my stay there. Due to my lack of Indonesian and my complex's lack of English, I did not learn how to get said security card. EVERY time I wanted to use the elevator I'd have to play charades with the security guards or opt for the stairs.
I lived on the 12th floor. 

9. I'm about 70% sure I went on a date with a married man. I was under the impression he was just showing me round the city. Until he's inviting me overseas to share a hotel room. 
This was not the only time I was mistaken for some kind of ready-to-go mistess. Apparently happily single solo white female travellers aren't so accepted here. 

10. Indonesia is one of those countries where all of a sudden you're a millionaire because the currancy has undergone some serious inflation. I lost track of the amount of times I lost money from missing or adding an extra decimal. I'm also ashamed of the unreasonably large pile of coins I accumulated becuase I was just too slow to actually pay with them. 

11. I was in Jakarta in the thick of the wet season- meaning heavy rains with no warning. Without fail everytime it rained I had left my umberella at home. I also didn't pack a raincoat or any kind of rain-proof essentails. 

12. I was legitimately sick for the entire 6 weeks I lived and worked in Jakarta. I won't go into the gruesome details, but will instead just give some advice:
Do not, under any circumstance, drink bad water. Do not swim in it. Don't even look at it.


The windy streets of Kebon Jeruk from my Jakarta West apartment

Jakarta definitely won this round. However you can't get rid of me that easily. I'll be back for round 2.

I leave this post with my most-used Indonesian phrase and generally my overall ability in Jakarta.
‘Saya tidak mengerti’ (I don’t understand) 






I came to Jakarta in Janurary to study Bahasa Indonesia and media before completing an internship on TV. I stayed at Wisma Sanita in Ben Hill and Belmont Residence in Kebon Jeruk.

I studied with ACICIS (The Australian Consortium for In-Country Indonesian Studies) in the JPP (Journalism Professional Practicum) and worked at Metro TV

My travels were cut short in Jakarta after illness, but stay posted for my not-so-distant return to my South East Asia adventure. Updates @K_ditch on twitter or subsribe to my posts